Restoration and decoupage of a lampshade
Nowadays it is becoming fashionable to decorate your home with homemade items. Unique things, interior items made in vintage style or decorated using photographs, scraps from grandma's chest will help make the room unusual. The article is devoted to decorating an old plastic lampshade for a table lamp using the “decoupage».
Often, before decorating something, it is necessary to restore the surface. We'll tell you how to strengthen and level a plastic lampshade for subsequent decorative finishing.
Once I already did the restoration and decoupage of the lampshade, then I came across the product with significantly fewer flaws than now. In addition, the dark color of the chosen motif concealed all the unevenness of the light. But a lampshade is an object that transmits light, by definition.
Recently I came across a table lamp. Its lampshade had clear designs and floral patterns. The owners got tired of the drawing, and on top of that it had defects: lines from a ballpoint pen, drawn by a child.Upon closer inspection, it became noticeable that the plastic had burst in places.
To decoupage this lampshade, I decided to use light motifs. The choice fell on delicate tulips against the background of a wooden ornament; the greenery and tenderness of the flowers captivated me.
Matching the gray shades of the napkin, I looked at cotton braid (lace) to finish the bottom of the lampshade.
I would like to tell you more about the restoration of this piece of furniture.
The leg of the lamp is white, so that paint does not get on it, we will cover it with newspapers.
Before starting any decoration at all, it was necessary to understand what kind of object it was and what it was made of. I saw that the lampshade itself was plastic, almost transparent, and on top it was covered with fabric, which was cut according to a pattern and tightly glued to the surface.
An attempt to lighten the fabric with hydrogen peroxide did not lead to anything, only dust and dirt remained on the cotton wool.
It turned out that the designs were printed on the fabric; the plastic itself did not have a design.
Also, by applying napkins and pieces of old wallpaper, I realized that the flowers show through in any case.
It became clear that the fabric needed to be removed. Whether it was just white or cream, you could try decoupaging right on top of it.
So, let's get rid of the old fabric. I found the seam and carefully began to separate the fabric from the surface it was glued to. Over time, the glue lost its adhesive properties, and the fabric came off easily, but not everywhere.
This must be done very carefully: in several places where there were cracks, the lampshade managed to burst.
I was ready to finish the work and take the thing to where it belonged, that is, in the trash, but my interest in creativity overpowered me. So, the cracks had to be restored.
Like the previous time, I started the restoration from the back (gluing small patches) and from the front (gluing white napkins).
Last time I used white paint instead of a primer: the lampshade was covered with smooth paper of the same color. I started painting plastic now.
And this is what I got when I turned on the lamp:
All irregularities, cracks, patches were clearly visible in the light. It became clear that a napkin would not hide them. Something had to be done. Several days of thinking led me to the conclusion that the paint needed to be washed off (it’s good that it was not waterproof).
Under running warm water, very carefully I wiped off all the paint with a sponge, not excluding cracks. The patches were all washed away too. And the work began all over again.
For some time I was choosing a putty (primer). I chose acrylate moisture-resistant putty from the Collection company: the manufacturer promises that it is ideal for decorative coatings, and what is a napkin motif if not a decorative coating?
I continued restoration experiments, all of which were carried out with the lamp on, to assess the degree of transparency. Cracks on the back and front sides (if not concave) were sealed with several layers of tape (cut into small squares and glued, trying to avoid bubbles).
The second step was the first coat of primer on the lamp. First I sealed the large cracks, then began to apply the composition to the entire surface.
And here’s the problem: it lay evenly only in some places, in some places it became thicker, in others it let in light. I didn't despair, I applied the paste and left it to dry for a couple of hours.After this time, I tried sanding the surface with 60-grit sandpaper and found that all the rough edges were very easy to smooth out.
After the first layer had dried, I (with the lamp on!) began to apply the primer thicker and bolder, in broad strokes, trying to ensure that the light was transmitted uniformly. After the surface has dried, it can be sanded and it will be ready for further work.
After the main part has dried, you can add pastes to those places where dots, cracks or other defects are visible. It is convenient to do this with cardboard, using it as a spatula. Leave it to dry again, or you can dry it with a hairdryer.
This is what the lampshade looks like after applying putty and sanding the surface:
Now it is clear that the napkin motif will be clearly visible both when the lamp is on and off.
After priming, I simply paint the lampshade with gray paint. There is another little secret: I tint (add color) the paint with regular watercolors. Of course, I don’t dilute it with water, but I add a piece of watercolor to the paint and mix it for a long time until the color becomes uniform.
You should try the color in the corner: isn’t it dark? If it is dark, add white paint and mix again.
Now it’s very simple: I paint with a wide brush, leveling the paint layer; if here and there there is a texture in the form of small scratches, then it’s not scary and even interesting. It is still advisable to paint in one chosen direction (either from top to bottom, or in a circle).
That's all, now the lampshade is ready for decoration in any way! You can do decoupage, or you can use ribbons, or paint with acrylic paints, applying the selected pattern.
Housewives who love and know how to make lovely little things and interior items with their own hands will be interested to learn about this method of decoration as decoupage. This is the design of any surface using colored motifs from three-layer napkins. Indeed, sometimes there are bright, beautiful designs on serving napkins that you just want to transfer, for example, to a lampshade. Such a table lamp will look good in both the bedroom and the living room, and the motifs for decoupage can be chosen in accordance with the overall interior of the room.
In the previous part of the article, we already examined in detail the stages of preparing the surface for decoration. Let's summarize.
Paint is not suitable as a primer, and restoration with white napkins is not suitable, as it shows through the plastic. We sealed the cracks from the inside with transparent tape, and then applied putty (primer) to the surface, which was then sanded for a long time with sandpaper No. 60.
The next step will be to carefully treat small cracks and irregularities with this paste.
After sanding, we will apply two layers of paint, and after drying our lampshade will be ready for decoration.
After the surface has dried and is ready for decoration, you need to select and prepare napkins. The quality of the image greatly influences the final appearance of the item being designed.
Recommendations for choosing napkins:
three-layer napkins are better than two-layer ones;
choose motifs taking into account the fact that they will need to be cut out, that is, without small details;
The brighter the colors, the better; do not buy very light or too dark napkins.
Before you start decorating the lamp, separate the colorful layer from the napkin and iron the folds from the inside with an iron. After this, cut out the motifs.
Attention! You can first cut out the motifs, then separate the layers and only then iron them. Choose the option that is convenient for you.
As an adhesive, dilute wallpaper paste a little thinner than for pasting walls.
Think over the composition: attach napkins to the lampshade, imagine the finished product. If a solution has been found and an idea has appeared, you can begin decoupage.
Apply glue with a wide brush to the place where the motif will be. Next, apply the motif with the colorful side up, making sure it sticks in the middle, and then smooth the edges. If everything is done correctly, the napkin will lie flat on its own; you only need to help it a little. This paper is very thin and must be handled delicately. We can say that there is no room for error here.
Gradually cover the entire surface or part of it with motifs, in accordance with your idea. Depending on the motive, the design must be combined in whole or in part. Some patterns do not require a match.
In this example, I started filling the surface from top to bottom: first - a gray background with wood motifs, below - flowers and even lower - also floral motifs. It turns out something like a flower bed of lilies.
The resulting drawing can only be truly seen after drying. In this case, you can and even need to dry it with a hairdryer, since this can also eliminate minor unevenness and other defects. Turn on the lamp and see what happens.
Decorate (glue) the top of the lamp.
Look at the resulting drawing: perhaps it requires completion of some element. In this case, I used a simple pencil to mark the flowers that were on a light background.
The varnish will be a layer of transparent wallpaper glue. It dries in a couple of hours.
To finish the bottom of the lamp, I used gray braid that matched the style.I fix it with a few drops of glue from a glue gun.
As a final chord, I place textile flowers at the junction.
So, now you can remove the protective coating from the lamp leg, wipe it with flannel and take the final photo.
List of materials needed for this work:
1. Lampshade.
2. Primer or putty with the indication: “for decorative coating.”
3. Sandpaper.
4. Brushes.
5. Watercolor paints.
6. Waterproof white paint.
7. Napkins with matching motifs.
8. Braid.
9. Scissors.
10. Glue gun.
11. Scotch tape.
Often, before decorating something, it is necessary to restore the surface. We'll tell you how to strengthen and level a plastic lampshade for subsequent decorative finishing.
Restoration of a lampshade for decoupage
Once I already did the restoration and decoupage of the lampshade, then I came across the product with significantly fewer flaws than now. In addition, the dark color of the chosen motif concealed all the unevenness of the light. But a lampshade is an object that transmits light, by definition.
Recently I came across a table lamp. Its lampshade had clear designs and floral patterns. The owners got tired of the drawing, and on top of that it had defects: lines from a ballpoint pen, drawn by a child.Upon closer inspection, it became noticeable that the plastic had burst in places.
To decoupage this lampshade, I decided to use light motifs. The choice fell on delicate tulips against the background of a wooden ornament; the greenery and tenderness of the flowers captivated me.
Matching the gray shades of the napkin, I looked at cotton braid (lace) to finish the bottom of the lampshade.
I would like to tell you more about the restoration of this piece of furniture.
Removing old coating
The leg of the lamp is white, so that paint does not get on it, we will cover it with newspapers.
Before starting any decoration at all, it was necessary to understand what kind of object it was and what it was made of. I saw that the lampshade itself was plastic, almost transparent, and on top it was covered with fabric, which was cut according to a pattern and tightly glued to the surface.
An attempt to lighten the fabric with hydrogen peroxide did not lead to anything, only dust and dirt remained on the cotton wool.
It turned out that the designs were printed on the fabric; the plastic itself did not have a design.
Also, by applying napkins and pieces of old wallpaper, I realized that the flowers show through in any case.
It became clear that the fabric needed to be removed. Whether it was just white or cream, you could try decoupaging right on top of it.
So, let's get rid of the old fabric. I found the seam and carefully began to separate the fabric from the surface it was glued to. Over time, the glue lost its adhesive properties, and the fabric came off easily, but not everywhere.
This must be done very carefully: in several places where there were cracks, the lampshade managed to burst.
I was ready to finish the work and take the thing to where it belonged, that is, in the trash, but my interest in creativity overpowered me. So, the cracks had to be restored.
Restoration, work with cracks
Like the previous time, I started the restoration from the back (gluing small patches) and from the front (gluing white napkins).
Last time I used white paint instead of a primer: the lampshade was covered with smooth paper of the same color. I started painting plastic now.
And this is what I got when I turned on the lamp:
All irregularities, cracks, patches were clearly visible in the light. It became clear that a napkin would not hide them. Something had to be done. Several days of thinking led me to the conclusion that the paint needed to be washed off (it’s good that it was not waterproof).
Under running warm water, very carefully I wiped off all the paint with a sponge, not excluding cracks. The patches were all washed away too. And the work began all over again.
For some time I was choosing a putty (primer). I chose acrylate moisture-resistant putty from the Collection company: the manufacturer promises that it is ideal for decorative coatings, and what is a napkin motif if not a decorative coating?
I continued restoration experiments, all of which were carried out with the lamp on, to assess the degree of transparency. Cracks on the back and front sides (if not concave) were sealed with several layers of tape (cut into small squares and glued, trying to avoid bubbles).
The second step was the first coat of primer on the lamp. First I sealed the large cracks, then began to apply the composition to the entire surface.
And here’s the problem: it lay evenly only in some places, in some places it became thicker, in others it let in light. I didn't despair, I applied the paste and left it to dry for a couple of hours.After this time, I tried sanding the surface with 60-grit sandpaper and found that all the rough edges were very easy to smooth out.
After the first layer had dried, I (with the lamp on!) began to apply the primer thicker and bolder, in broad strokes, trying to ensure that the light was transmitted uniformly. After the surface has dried, it can be sanded and it will be ready for further work.
After the main part has dried, you can add pastes to those places where dots, cracks or other defects are visible. It is convenient to do this with cardboard, using it as a spatula. Leave it to dry again, or you can dry it with a hairdryer.
This is what the lampshade looks like after applying putty and sanding the surface:
Now it is clear that the napkin motif will be clearly visible both when the lamp is on and off.
Coloring
After priming, I simply paint the lampshade with gray paint. There is another little secret: I tint (add color) the paint with regular watercolors. Of course, I don’t dilute it with water, but I add a piece of watercolor to the paint and mix it for a long time until the color becomes uniform.
You should try the color in the corner: isn’t it dark? If it is dark, add white paint and mix again.
Now it’s very simple: I paint with a wide brush, leveling the paint layer; if here and there there is a texture in the form of small scratches, then it’s not scary and even interesting. It is still advisable to paint in one chosen direction (either from top to bottom, or in a circle).
That's all, now the lampshade is ready for decoration in any way! You can do decoupage, or you can use ribbons, or paint with acrylic paints, applying the selected pattern.
Delicate lilies: lampshade decoupage
Housewives who love and know how to make lovely little things and interior items with their own hands will be interested to learn about this method of decoration as decoupage. This is the design of any surface using colored motifs from three-layer napkins. Indeed, sometimes there are bright, beautiful designs on serving napkins that you just want to transfer, for example, to a lampshade. Such a table lamp will look good in both the bedroom and the living room, and the motifs for decoupage can be chosen in accordance with the overall interior of the room.
In the previous part of the article, we already examined in detail the stages of preparing the surface for decoration. Let's summarize.
Paint is not suitable as a primer, and restoration with white napkins is not suitable, as it shows through the plastic. We sealed the cracks from the inside with transparent tape, and then applied putty (primer) to the surface, which was then sanded for a long time with sandpaper No. 60.
The next step will be to carefully treat small cracks and irregularities with this paste.
After sanding, we will apply two layers of paint, and after drying our lampshade will be ready for decoration.
Preparing napkins and decoupage
After the surface has dried and is ready for decoration, you need to select and prepare napkins. The quality of the image greatly influences the final appearance of the item being designed.
Recommendations for choosing napkins:
three-layer napkins are better than two-layer ones;
choose motifs taking into account the fact that they will need to be cut out, that is, without small details;
The brighter the colors, the better; do not buy very light or too dark napkins.
Before you start decorating the lamp, separate the colorful layer from the napkin and iron the folds from the inside with an iron. After this, cut out the motifs.
Attention! You can first cut out the motifs, then separate the layers and only then iron them. Choose the option that is convenient for you.
As an adhesive, dilute wallpaper paste a little thinner than for pasting walls.
Think over the composition: attach napkins to the lampshade, imagine the finished product. If a solution has been found and an idea has appeared, you can begin decoupage.
Apply glue with a wide brush to the place where the motif will be. Next, apply the motif with the colorful side up, making sure it sticks in the middle, and then smooth the edges. If everything is done correctly, the napkin will lie flat on its own; you only need to help it a little. This paper is very thin and must be handled delicately. We can say that there is no room for error here.
Gradually cover the entire surface or part of it with motifs, in accordance with your idea. Depending on the motive, the design must be combined in whole or in part. Some patterns do not require a match.
In this example, I started filling the surface from top to bottom: first - a gray background with wood motifs, below - flowers and even lower - also floral motifs. It turns out something like a flower bed of lilies.
The resulting drawing can only be truly seen after drying. In this case, you can and even need to dry it with a hairdryer, since this can also eliminate minor unevenness and other defects. Turn on the lamp and see what happens.
Final touches
Decorate (glue) the top of the lamp.
Look at the resulting drawing: perhaps it requires completion of some element. In this case, I used a simple pencil to mark the flowers that were on a light background.
The varnish will be a layer of transparent wallpaper glue. It dries in a couple of hours.
To finish the bottom of the lamp, I used gray braid that matched the style.I fix it with a few drops of glue from a glue gun.
As a final chord, I place textile flowers at the junction.
So, now you can remove the protective coating from the lamp leg, wipe it with flannel and take the final photo.
Application
List of materials needed for this work:
1. Lampshade.
2. Primer or putty with the indication: “for decorative coating.”
3. Sandpaper.
4. Brushes.
5. Watercolor paints.
6. Waterproof white paint.
7. Napkins with matching motifs.
8. Braid.
9. Scissors.
10. Glue gun.
11. Scotch tape.
Similar master classes
Particularly interesting
Comments (2)