Repairing aquarium lighting

Maintaining an aquarium in an apartment is a matter that requires a detailed approach and various knowledge. Including knowledge on lighting a jar with fish (aquarium experts call an aquarium a jar).

If the aquarium operates for a long time, the lighting system may fail. And this is where the ability to set up light for the underwater kingdom comes in handy, because without lighting aquarium plants will not survive, and the aesthetic appearance of the design and the fish themselves will always be in the shade.

In our case, the Jebo aquarium lighting needed to be repaired. The specificity of these aquariums is that the light block is built into the lid and covered from the inside with a transparent plastic casing. The Jebo lid also contains a filtration system that is built into the back, i.e. The filter in these aquariums is external; inside the aquarium there is only a water intake tube and a motor for lifting water into the filter. During operation in a lighting system, not only lamps, but also starters can fail. These are removable elements, they can be replaced with similar serviceable ones. The most unpleasant thing is when the connecting wires, which are hidden inside the cover and inaccessible for manipulation, and external plastic parts fail.The plastic used for them is thin, and over time, from constant heating when lighting the aquarium, it simply crumbles and crumbles, like an egg shell.

In such cases, repairing the original lighting system is no longer possible, so it makes sense to completely replace the light unit.

For such a reconstruction of the aquarium lid, it is necessary to select a lamp with a T5 tube lamp. For exact data, see the lighting label for the aquarium. Choose warm-toned light. The lamp may have its own switch. The most important thing is the size. The lamp must fit compactly into the size provided in the Jebo cover.
We start by analyzing the light block of the Jebo lid. We completely dismantle it: remove the plastic casing, freeing it from the metal clamps, then unscrew the panel on which the original lamp holders are located.
Next, we cut the wires that go to the plug and strip the ends of the stranded copper wire.

Let's return to the purchased lamp. We also cut the wire to the plug. The switch must be left! Because The lid switch keys are now non-functional and turning on and off will be done through the lamp switch.

Now you need to ensure the connection of the wires. It is convenient to use heat crimping for additional fixation and sealing of the joint. To shrink the thermal insulation we use a regular hairdryer. You can also heat the joint over a candle flame, but a hair dryer is much more convenient.

We twist the protected ends of the wires, match the colors of the insulation, and connect the wires with insulation of the same colors.The sequence of actions is as follows: select thermal insulation of the appropriate size, put on one of the wires, twist the exposed ends, slide on the heat shrink and blow with hot air from a hairdryer at maximum temperature.

As a result, the heat shrink polymer compresses the joint, protecting it from external influences and strengthening it. Be sure to check the operation of the lamp! If the wires are connected incorrectly, the light may not turn on; if the insulation is broken, a short circuit will occur. In these cases, you will have to redo the wire connection.
The next stage is placing the lamp in the lid. The Jebo type aquarium has fastenings using screw connections and metal springs. We screw the lamp through the provided holes to the lid of the aquarium. We pass the wire through the technological hole into another compartment of the aquarium lid and bring it out together with the wire from the aerator filter to the outlet.