Installation of a kitchen hood in a private house
Content
1. Purpose of a kitchen hood.
2. What the system consists of and the necessary set of tools.
3. Preliminary work.
4. Installation of the exhaust system.
5. Testing a kitchen hood in winter.
A kitchen hood is placed above the stove and is designed to ventilate and purify contaminated air (soot, odors) or move it outside the room. Installing a kitchen hood is a labor-intensive process if you do not have a ventilation opening, requiring basic knowledge and skills in electrical engineering, if you need to move or reconnect the outlet. The rest of the work is not difficult to complete, the main thing is to have practical skills in construction.
What the system consists of, and the necessary set of tools and materials.
The provided built-in domestic exhaust system consists of:
- fan with grease catcher and local lighting;
- exhaust duct;
- transition elements;
- corrugations, diameter 115 mm;
- air duct, length 300 mm and diameter 130 mm;
- ventilation visor with a check valve with a diameter of 130 mm.
Power is supplied through a plug socket, which is located in the internal area of the hood duct.
Preliminary work.
Installing a kitchen hood begins with determining its location. After this, circles are drawn on the supporting wall for an air duct with a cross-section of 130 mm and a socket with a diameter of 65 mm. Using a hammer drill and a long drill, through holes are drilled along the contour of the future ventilation opening and in its center. Using a lance, an opening with a diameter of more than 130 mm is knocked out through the holes. Using a crown or drill (6 - 12 mm) and a pick, a place is prepared for the box for the socket. From the switching box, in compliance with the installation standards for electrical systems, a groove is punched or cut to the socket, and a copper two-core wire with a cross-section of two millimeters is laid, so that its ends hang from the listed boxes by 150 - 200 mm. Alabaster secures the box for the socket and wire. An air duct with a cross-section of 130 mm is installed on the cement mortar, at an inclination of 5 - 10 degrees to the street side.
After the solution has dried, the wall is leveled with starting and finishing putty.
Once the solution has hardened, finishing work is carried out. The ends of the embedded wire are stripped of insulation and connected to the phase, neutral and terminals of the socket, which is then installed in its regular place.
Installation of the exhaust system.
1. Installation of the visor. A canopy with a non-return valve is attached to the façade of the building at a level.
In case of strong deviation along the vertical axis, the valve will be in the slightly open position when the air removal system is idle.
2. Preparing the box. The built-in hood is mounted in a 305 mm deep box made of laminated chipboard (16 mm thick) and covered with an MDF facade. Other sizes are shown in the photo.
In the back wall and in the chipboard shelf, through elements are cut out with a jigsaw for a corrugation (140 mm cross-section) and a socket, the end of which is protected from moisture with silicone. On the inner shelf, closer to the corner, a hole with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm is drilled for inserting the electrical cable.
The hood box is connected to other wall kitchen cabinets.
3. Attaching hanging drawers to the wall. Adjustable canopies are attached to the boxes.
The strips for awnings are marked and fastened on the wall. The boxes are hung and leveled.
4. Installation of the transition. A transition from section 125 (outer size) to 115 mm (inner diameter) is inserted into the air duct from the inside of the duct.
5. Installation of a kitchen hood. A cable is threaded through the prepared shelf hole, and the exhaust device is immediately fixed to it. A plug is connected to the cable. One end of the 115 mm aluminum corrugation is inserted into the air duct, the other is clamped onto the device pipe.
The plug is inserted into the socket and all modes of operation of the device are checked.
Testing a kitchen hood in winter.
During the research, at -20 0C and the kitchen stove was idle (more than 12 hours), it turned out that if condensation does form, it does not get into the kitchen or onto the facade of the building, the valve always remains free and the system works without interruptions. Based on the data obtained, we can conclude: small exhaust systems up to 1.5 m with an air duct installed at an angle will not be covered with ice in the winter.
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