How to convert a bicycle from a chain drive to a cardan drive

Compared to conventional chain drives, bicycle models with cardan drives have some advantages. They have higher cross-country ability due to higher ground clearance. Due to the fact that the cardan mechanism is securely closed on all sides, less dirt, water and sand get into it. The cuffs of trousers and the hem of skirts are excluded. This transmission is reliable, does not require frequent maintenance, is precise in operation and is quite balanced. With some metal and mechanical skills, it's not difficult to convert your bike from a traditional chain drive to a fancy cardan drive.

Will need

Materials:

  • bicycle with chain drive;
  • bicycle rear wheel hub;
  • two rear hub axles;
  • round steel pipe;
  • driven sprocket;
  • nuts;
  • grease lubricant;
  • spray paint.

Tools: grinder, welding equipment, bench vice, wrenches, etc.

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The process of replacing a bicycle chain with a driveshaft

We disconnect and remove the chain from the sprockets and, by unscrewing the fastening bolt, remove the drive sprocket together with the pedal from the rotation axis.

Using a grinder, cut off the right “horn” of the rear fork from the side of the sprockets at the root.

We cut out the middle part of the rear hub housing and leave only the sprocket, its mount and the axle.

We butt weld the ends of the two rear axles and get one long axle.

We put a pipe on the long axle, inserting one end into the hole in the rear bushing flange, and on the other end we put a sprocket with a small number of teeth to interact with the large driving sprocket. We tighten the structure on both sides with nuts.

We weld the pipe to the flanges, and the sprockets to them. We weld the ends of the double axle at the front and rear instead of the previously cut “horn” of the rear fork.

We put the large sprocket in place together with the pedal and securely fasten it with wrenches. As a result, the front driven sprocket engages with the teeth of the drive sprocket, and the rear driven sprocket engages with the wheel sprocket. To protect areas that cannot be painted, we cover the driveline with spray paint.

As with a chain drive, we rotate the pedals and the drive sprocket, the teeth of which, interacting with the first driven sprocket, rotate the pipe with the second driven sprocket welded at its other end, and therefore the rear wheel. For smooth running, lubricate the sprockets with grease.

Watch the video

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Comments (4)
  1. STRANNICS
    #1 STRANNICS Guests 4 February 2022 12:58
    7
    The author undoubtedly deserves praise, but what the author did cannot be called a cardan drive. The cardan looks different and is designed to compensate for shaft misalignment. This is a regular gear drive. Unfortunately, the efficiency and durability of such a drive are highly questionable. Sprockets for a chain drive cannot replace involute bevel gears. There is a very high probability of rapid wear of the sprocket teeth. For greater reliability and durability, you will have to greatly change the constitution and the drive circuit itself, and this is already expensive. Welding and metalworking skills alone will not be enough. We need a good machine park.
  2. Valdemar
    #2 Valdemar Guests 10 February 2022 08:52
    0
    Not necessarily, you can get by with a couple of burnt out earrings...
  3. guest
    #3 guest Guests 20 March 2022 13:06
    2
    the tops of the sprocket will bend or break when the author rides his bike up the hill.
  4. Mikhail
    #4 Mikhail Guests 25 June 2023 18:37
    1
    The cardan drive contains universal joints (at least one). There are none here. Why is this transmission called “cardan”?