Autonomous heating based on electric heating element

Modern comfortable living is somehow connected with heating. This is one of the most important communications, which is considered at the stage of creating a development project. Central heat and power systems most often run on gas. But what to do if there are no gasification lines nearby, but heat is needed? In this case, autonomous heating is your option.

There are quite a lot of varieties of it, and they are very hotly discussed on the Internet. Typically, disputes arise around the profitability of a particular scheme, because the main task of all home-made autonomous heating systems is not to bankrupt their owners. And now we will look at one of these economical assemblies.

Operating principle

The battery is packed in the usual way using four bags. At the lower point of the radiator's beginning, instead of a shut-off fitting, an electric heating element is mounted. At the opposite upper point there is a Mayevsky valve for releasing excess air pressure. According to the author's plan, the radiator is filled with distilled water by gravity. The system is controlled by two thermostats - water and air.

Materials
  • Radiator;
  • Three standard fittings: two closed with plugs, one empty;
  • Mayevsky crane;
  • Heating element (heating element);
  • Two thermostats – water and air;
  • Plumbing fulente or tow;
  • Three-core power cable for grounding with a plug.
Tools:
  • Gas or other large adjustable wrench;
  • Open-end wrench for Mayevsky tap;
  • Screwdriver, pliers, painting knife. Assembling the heating system

Step one - prepare the radiator and install the heating element

We pack the radiator liners in the usual way, winding sealing tape or tow with silicone sealant, and screw them through rubber gaskets. We tighten them with an adjustable or gas wrench. The heating element must be matched to the internal thread of the radiator. We screw it through the paronite gasket, wrapping the threads with fume tape. In his assembly, the author used a heating element with a power of only 0.8 kW for a cast iron radiator with 10 sections. The calculation can be made using the following formula, and selected according to the provided table (photo).

Step two - fill the battery

Prepare the coolant (distilled water). One section of cast iron batteries holds about 1.5 liters of liquid. We set the radiator horizontally and pour in coolant through a watering can or hose by gravity. The final liquid level should reach the beginning of the Mayevsky tap, leaving an air gap in the battery. Having filled the radiator, screw the tap through the rubber gasket into the sleeve, pressing lightly with an open-end wrench.

Step three - connect thermostats

The key to the rationality of such a heating system is the economical operation of the heating device (heating element). In our case, heating is carried out in two media of different densities - water and air. Therefore, there should be two thermostats.In addition, there is also a cast iron radiator, which has its own thermal resistance, thermal conductivity and heat transfer coefficients.

The water thermostat is responsible for limiting the heating of the coolant inside the radiator. Usually it comes as a standard addition to the heating element, and is a device in the form of a probe with a temperature sensor at the end. We insert it into the technological hole and connect it to the heating element. Using a rheostat, we set a limit on the temperature of the water inside the battery.

The air temperature in the room is regulated by a single-channel air thermostat. It can be placed nearby. Most of them are compact, intuitive to use and can be attached to almost any surface, such as a wall. The principle of operation is similar to a switch, so to connect it to the system, you just need to connect zero or phase through the breaker to choose from. One thermal sensor is also connected to the body, which can be extended at will. The thermostat is electronically adjustable and contains only two modes for setting the temperature - on and off. The memory of such a device is volatile, consumption is no more than 3 W.

We combine the thermostats into a single circuit, through which we connect the heating element. We install the radiator in its place, and glue the wall under it with foil insulation. This measure will reduce heat loss to the enclosing structures and make the operation of the system even more economical.

Watch the video

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Comments (17)
  1. Leff.nag
    #1 Leff.nag Guests March 20, 2018 05:02
    7
    Without an expansion tank, not a working design. I made two of these with antifreeze (luckily I had it then). When the temperature rises from 20 to 70, the expansion is about a liter.
    1. guest
      #2 guest Guests 28 March 2018 15:46
      0
      Everything works fine without an expansion tank. You need to set the internal regulator (at the very shade) to maximum, and warm up the radiator to the maximum possible temperature with this regulator. At the same time, periodically open the Gaevsky valve and release excess air pressure. When the radiator cools, there will be a slight vacuum there. Everything has been working for several years now.
  2. Guest
    #3 Guest Guests March 20, 2018 09:55
    5
    I made one for 12 m2, a radiator for 12 sections with an expansion tank, I went broke on electricity..
  3. Guest
    #4 Guest Guests March 22, 2018 08:45
    0
    ...Total power 3.2 kV for a house of 5 rooms???...
    Probably rooms of 6 sq.m? You can’t fool nature... If there are no additional heat sources, heating average 1 kV of electrical energy is consumed per 10 sq.m of area...
    1. Hrolf
      #5 Hrolf Guests 22 March 2018 13:58
      0
      No. 1 kW per 10 square meters is for a Nif-Nif house, made of straw, tens of timber or silicate of one and a half bricks. A normal frame structure, for example, or an apartment building - where losses occur only through one plane out of six - have much better thermal efficiency.For example, my SIP house spends 9-11 kW on 240 square meters only when it is -20 outside, i.e. with a gradient of 40 degrees.
  4. Guest Sergey
    #6 Guest Sergey Guests 22 March 2018 17:12
    0
    Price for installing a thermostat on the wall. This is how people burn.
  5. Guest Vladimir
    #7 Guest Vladimir Guests 23 March 2018 20:57
    0
    the idea is clear why the author doesn’t write how much it will cost him
  6. Anatoly.
    #8 Anatoly. Guests March 25, 2018 00:21
    0
    They wrote correctly “you’ll cost a pretty penny” and plus you’ll also have to pay for central heating on the general basis PP No. 334.
  7. Dmitriy
    #9 Dmitriy Guests 25 March 2018 22:49
    2
    Here it is necessary to install an expansion tank and a safety group. So, in the event of a heater failure, when it overheats the coolant, the pressure in the radiator may increase above its strength. Due to a sudden depressurization of the radiator (the pressure drops), the superheated liquid will turn into steam and an explosive increase in pressure in the radiator will occur. Such explosions can easily demolish a wall and even a house. The administrator urgently needs to write an explanation to prevent a tragedy.
  8. Guest Evgeniy
    #10 Guest Evgeniy Guests 29 March 2018 16:29
    0
    don't fool people's heads, nothing works without an expansion tank
    1. Guest Victor
      #11 Guest Victor Guests 4 April 2018 13:26
      1
      What about electric oil heaters?
      1. SERAN
        #12 SERAN Guests 11 April 2018 04:36
        0
        The author is not looking for easy ways, but is looking for extreme sports at the risk of his life.
      2. Sector
        #13 Sector Guests 31 January 2019 20:18
        1
        There are no oil heaters. There are oil ones. Do you know that when water boils it turns into steam? That's why an expansion tank is needed. But oil heaters use oil that does not boil above 150 degrees Celsius. Did you catch the difference, iPhone generation?
      3. Sector
        #14 Sector Guests 31 January 2019 20:19
        0
        Guilty. It must happen that I wrote it wrong twice. Should read OIL HEATERS.
  9. Guest Igor
    #15 Guest Igor Guests 18 April 2018 09:53
    0
    The author knows a lot about perversions. A radiator with 11 sections as in the video will cost 5.5k. minimum. About two years ago, a section of cast iron cost about 500 rubles, a heating element with automation, well, let it be a mower, and a TR-16 for 2 more. And without any small things, we have a dubious replacement for a low-power oil heater (800 watts) for 8-9k. Moreover, it is stationary. By the way, for 1.5k you can buy a convector heater, which can also be hung on a wall on a bracket, or left to roll on wheels with a power that is 2 times higher and an efficiency that is 5 times higher, because... Convectors have better heat transfer than an old cast iron battery. those. we scrap an old cast iron battery (about 1k), if you already have cast iron, add 500 rubles. and we rejoice at a normal heater, the thermal efficiency is at least half an order of magnitude higher than this miracle of engineering. I’m just keeping quiet about ease of use. For the remaining 2.5, not spent on the purchase of components for this miracle of technology and time, we wash the purchase. Well, for 15k. you can take a split with a power of 700 Watts, which in the off-season will produce about 2 kW of heat.
  10. Guest Igor
    #16 Guest Igor Guests 30 August 2018 18:08
    0
    Do you even know that any heating radiator is part of the communal heating system and without the permission of the Criminal Code you have no right to do anything at all?
    Everything you wrote doesn’t even need to be read. In a private home, please invent and create until you burn out. God will be your judge there.