How to make a highly efficient stove from a gas cylinder
A solid fuel stove with fast heating, high heat output and efficiency will not be out of place in a garage or other utility rooms during cold seasons. It can be done by any adult with basic metalworking skills from an unusable gas cylinder and metal scraps.
Will need
Materials:
- gas cylinder 50 liters;
- welded hinges;
- remains of steel sheet, strip and angle;
- open-end wrench 13 to 17;
- nut, washer and bolt 17;
- threaded rod;
- pipes with dampers with a diameter of 80 and 125 mm;
- asbestos cord, etc.
Tools: grinder, marking accessories, welding machine, vice, drill, hammer, etc.
The process of making a convection oven for a garage from a 50 liter gas cylinder
We unscrew the valve and fill the bottle with water for safety reasons. Having made sure that there is complete absence of gas in the cylinder, we proceed to cut the bottom.
To avoid problems later with centering the separated bottom and body, we weld the hinges. Having completed the bottom section and made sure that the hinges are welded accurately, we strengthen their connection with the help of plates.
We weld a piece of angle 25×25×45 mm to the bottom at a point diametrically opposite to the loop. Subsequently, we weld a 17mm bolt to it in the longitudinal direction.
From a 13 by 17 open-end wrench, we cut off a 13-point jaw and in its place we weld a threaded rod. Place the nut in the throat at 17 and weld it. We drill a hole in the handle closer to the rod, and make a slot on the outside of the jaw jaw at 17.
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At the end of the diameter perpendicular to the diameter connecting the loop with the angle and the bolt, we cut out a hole and weld to it a pipe with a diameter of 80 mm and a length of 100 mm with an adjustable flap.
We weld a corner from the inside across the hole.
We fasten the bottom by means of a welded loop to the body and weld a steel strip to the end of the bottom along the circumference to cover the annular gap between the body and the bottom.
We put a key and a washer on the bolt and tighten the nut. We place the key along the generatrix of the body and, under the slot in the key jaw, vertically weld a steel plate that fits into this slot.
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From the cylinder cap we cut off a flange with a threaded hole for screwing in the valve, and insert a steel “nickel” into the hole and weld it there.
Having laid the cylinder body on the floor so that the pipe at the bottom is directed downwards, we cut a hole in the body close to the cylinder cover. We insert a pipe with an adjustable damper with a diameter of 125 mm into the hole and weld it to the body.
In the bottom part from the inside, somewhat deeper, we weld a narrow segment of sheet metal on top.
In six blanks made of rectangular profile pipes 4x8x80 cm, in the middle part we make 36 transverse slots with a grinder, covering three sides.Then we bend them with the uncut side out.
We weld the rectangular pipes with the curved part to the cylinder body vertically, alternating the direction of the ends to the opposite.
To the ends of the rectangular pipes lying opposite to the pipe with a diameter of 125 mm, we weld sections of rectangular pipes 5 × 3 × 65 cm, directed parallel to the generatrix of the cylinder body.
We paint the structure, and the convection pipes with heat-resistant paint that can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees Celsius.
We place a grate inside the cylinder on pre-welded supports, install a chimney and seal the joint with asbestos cord.
We add kindling, light the fire and then add logs.
Along with the heating of the furnace firebox, cold air begins to be sucked into the convective pipes from below and leaves them at an already high temperature.
